Hurricane-Ready Roofing in Houston: Underlayments, Flashings, and Venting That Actually Matter
- Mark Johnson
- Oct 30
- 6 min read
The truth about “storm-ready” roofs in Houston
In Greater Houston, we don’t just get rain—we get wind-driven rain, sudden gusts, tropical remnants, and full-blown hurricane seasons. That’s why a storm-ready roof is more than “good shingles.” It’s a system of layers and details that keep water out when wind tries to push it in.
At BHC Contracting, we install to the details that matter: high-temp underlayments where they count, sealed flashings that don’t rely on caulk alone, and balanced ventilation that reduces attic pressure and moisture. Below is a straight-talk guide to help you understand what actually protects your home—and where to invest.
1) Underlayment: your leak defense when wind drives rain sideways
If shingles are your first line of defense, underlayment is the shield behind the armor. Traditional felt can wrinkle, tear, or absorb water. Modern synthetics resist tearing and lay flatter. The real upgrade is ice & water shield—a peel-and-stick membrane that self-seals around fasteners and stops capillary water movement when wind tries to shove rain uphill.
Where it matters most in Houston:
Eaves and rakes: Wind-driven rain loves to wick under edges.
Valleys: The highest water-traffic area on your roof—extra protection here is non-negotiable.
Penetrations: Around chimneys, skylights, vents, and pipe boots.
Low-slope sections: Extra insurance when pitch is borderline, like porch tie-ins.
Pro tip: Ask for a diagram that shows exactly where ice & water shield will be installed. We include this in our line-item estimates so you can compare apples to apples—not vague promises.
2) Flashings: metal beats caulk every time
If you hear “we’ll just caulk it,” you’re buying time, not protection. Most roof leaks we fix start at flashing—the metal that transitions roofing to walls, chimneys, skylights, and valleys. In Houston’s storms, those transitions either move water away cleanly or become the first failure point.
Essential flashings for Houston weather:
Open metal valleys (preferred): Faster shedding, easy to inspect, and less debris buildup than closed-cut valleys.
Step & counter-flashing at walls: Step flashing tucks with each shingle course; counter-flashing is cut into the wall cladding or mortar joint to lock out water.
Cricket behind chimneys: Splits water flow and prevents ponding at the uphill side.
Pipe boots: UV-resistant, reinforced boots with metal bases; thin rubber dries, cracks, and leaks early.
Drip edge & kick-out flashings: Drip edge keeps water out of fascia; kick-outs stop runoff from dumping into stucco or siding at roof-to-wall transitions.
Red flags to avoid: Painted goop, smeared sealant as the “fix,” reusing tired valley metal, or any proposal that skips counter-flashing. Those shortcuts show up later as ceiling stains—and insurance headaches.
3) Ventilation: balanced intake and exhaust, not just a ridge vent
Houston heat + humidity is brutal on attics. Poor ventilation traps moisture, cooks shingles from below, and increases pressure during high winds. A “storm-ready” roof has balanced airflow—roughly half intake and half exhaust.
What balanced means in practice:
Intake at the eaves/soffits brings in cooler, drier air.
Exhaust at the ridge or dedicated roof vents releases hot, moist air.
Net free area (NFA) should be calculated, not guessed, so airflow isn’t choked.
Why it matters in storms: Better pressure equalization reduces uplift forces at the roof deck. A dry attic also protects decking from long-term rot, so shingles hold better and fasteners stay locked.
Bonus check: While we’re there, we verify baffles at the eaves so insulation doesn’t block intake air—one of the most common mistakes we see in older homes.
4) Decking & fasteners: the part you don’t see—but feel in every storm
Shingles can’t perform if the decking is spongy, gapped, or water-damaged. During tear-off we inspect every sheet and repair what others miss.
Our checklist during tear-off:
Replace delaminated OSB or rotten planks.
Add H-clips where required to stiffen panel edges and reduce deflection.
Use proper ring-shank nails and precise nailing patterns per manufacturer spec—no wild shots, no under-driven heads.
Bonus for older homes: We verify nail length and penetration into framing. If a previous crew used short nails, you lost wind resistance from day one. We correct that and photograph the result for your records.
5) Shingle selection: beyond color and brand
We’ll help you choose a product that matches your neighborhood look, budget, and desired wind rating—but the real wins happen at the edges and seams.
Considerations that matter:
Architectural (laminate) shingles for improved wind resistance and better curb appeal.
Starter strips with factory adhesive at eaves/rakes to lock down the perimeter where wind attacks first.
High-profile ridge caps for a cleaner line and durable finish at the peak.
Insurance tip: If you’re documenting for insurance or resale, we photograph each layer—decking, underlayment, flashings, and nailing patterns—so you have proof of code-compliant work, not just a pretty roof.
6) What a storm-ready BHC roof install includes (our standard)
Tear-off down to decking with a full structural and moisture inspection.
Deck repairs as needed; correct fasteners and spacing verified.
Synthetic underlayment plus ice & water shield at eaves, valleys, and penetrations.
New open metal valleys, step & counter-flashing at walls, and a proper chimney cricket.
Drip edge and kick-outs at every transition that requires it.
Balanced soffit intake + ridge exhaust with measured NFA.
Manufacturer-spec nailing throughout—documented with photos.
Clean site, magnet sweep, and a straightforward warranty you can actually read.
7) Cost vs. value: where to invest first
If budget forces choices, prioritize in this order for Houston’s climate:
Flashing + ice & water shield coverage (these stop leaks)
Ventilation balance (extends shingle life and protects decking)
Decking repairs and correct fasteners (wind performance lives here)
Shingle upgrade (finish and rating to match your goals)
These investments protect the structure and reduce future costs—especially after heavy weather.
Homeowner checklist: pre-storm prep & post-storm inspection
Before a storm:
Clear gutters and downspouts so water can evacuate quickly.
Trim back limbs that could scrape shingles or rip off ridge caps.
Photograph your roof and soffits from the ground—these “before” pictures help with claims.
Check attic intake vents for blockages (insulation or paint over soffit screens).
Walk the interior ceilings to note any pre-existing stains.
After a storm:
Look for shingle tabs on the lawn, lifted ridge caps, or debris jammed in valleys.
Check fascia and siding beneath roof-to-wall areas for fresh streaks (often a kick-out problem).
From the attic, look for pinpoints of daylight or damp decking around penetrations.
If you suspect damage, don’t climb the roof—call a pro. We document issues with photos and give you a repair vs. replacement plan you can use with insurance.
Hiring smart: questions to ask any roofing contractor
Where will ice & water shield be installed (eaves, valleys, penetrations)? Can I see it on the diagram?
Are you installing open metal valleys and kick-out flashings where needed?
How will you balance intake vs. exhaust ventilation, and what NFA are you designing to?
Will you replace damaged decking and use ring-shank nails to manufacturer spec?
Will I get photo documentation of decking, underlayment, flashing, and nailing patterns?
What’s the cleanup plan (magnet sweep, haul-off) and how is the warranty written?
Good answers here are the difference between a roof that looks new and a roof that actually performs in sideways rain.
Signs your current roof isn’t storm-ready (and what to do next)
Granule wash-off at downspouts after windy rains → shingles aging fast or ventilation cooking them.
Drip lines on fascia or stained siding → missing kick-outs or bad drip edge.
Ceiling stains after sideways rain → flashing failure or missing ice & water shield.
Uneven ridges or soft spots underfoot → decking issues that need inspection.
If any of these sound familiar, schedule a quick assessment. We’ll map the problem, show you photos, and give honest options—from targeted repairs to full system upgrades.
FAQs
How long does a typical reroof take in Houston?
Most single-family homes: 1–2 days, weather permitting. Complex roofs, multiple valleys, or decking repairs can add a day.
Can you just “add a layer” over my old shingles to save money?
We don’t recommend it. You can’t inspect decking, you can’t correct flashing, and wind performance plus warranty both suffer. Storm-ready roofs start with a clean deck.
Do you work with my insurance claim?
Yes. We document assemblies with photos and line-item estimates so you can navigate claims without guesswork.
Will new ventilation make my house drafty?
No—balanced ventilation controls attic moisture and temperature. Your conditioned space stays comfortable; your roof system lasts longer.
Ready to storm-proof your roof?
Get a no-pressure, line-item estimate with diagrams of underlayment and flashing placement and a photo record you can keep.